I notice that many people have a warped idea about what is actually inside a perfume, and about the use of natural versus non natural materials. That is why I created this text to give more clarity.
Many people think that natural means safe, pure or environmentally friendly. In perfume, natural only means that something comes from a plant, and synthetic means that the same aroma molecule is produced in a laboratory. Both are chemicals. Both can smell beautiful. Both can be good or less good, depending on the molecule and the way it is made.
For that reason, we do not choose one side. We choose what is best for people, for the scent and for the environment.
What is a natural material?
A natural material is usually an essential oil, an absolute or a CO₂ extract. It comes from flowers, wood, resin, leaves or roots.
An essential oil is not a real oil. It contains no fats or lipids. They are volatile aromatic molecules. They can feel oily, but chemically they are nothing like oil.
A second reason essential oils can feel oily is that in nine out of ten cases they are not pure. Many small bottles in health stores are diluted in a carrier liquid such as dipropylene glycol or isopropyl myristate, or in vegetable oils.
A natural is never one single molecule, but a mix of dozens to hundreds of active molecules. That gives nuance, but also variation and risk, such as allergens, irritating components and differences between harvests.
Example: lavender oil contains linalool and limonene, two natural allergens.
What is a synthetic?
A synthetic aroma molecule is usually one pure molecule. Often it also exists in nature, but only in tiny amounts. Sometimes it is completely new. Modern synthetic materials are often cleaner, more stable and more pure than many naturals.
Thanks to green chemistry, many synthetic molecules today are more biodegradable and have a smaller ecological footprint than what is needed for large scale agriculture of naturals.
Example: ionones give the violet scent. In nature they appear in microscopic amounts. A synthetic ionone smells identical but saves huge amounts of plant material.
Why synthetics are often misunderstood
Many people have heard through media or marketing that cosmetics contain harmful substances. That is true. There are ingredients that are bad for surface water or even for human health. That discussion is important.
But that discussion is almost never about whether natural or synthetic aroma molecules are better or worse. It is usually about additives in cosmetics that can carry risks. That becomes very technical very fast, and then it is easy to simply say that synthetics are bad.
Examples of problematic additives in shampoos, creams and hair products:
Phthalates
Strong sulfates
Formaldehyde releasers
Triclosan
Poorly purified PEGs
Certain nitro musks
Problematic UV filters
Fortunately, we do not use these substances. In niche perfumes you almost never see them. They are simply not needed.
In perfume the main question is the origin of the aroma molecule that creates the scent. What is the source of the molecule? And exactly there you can make thoughtful choices, sometimes natural and sometimes synthetic.
Why 100 percent natural can be problematic
For a small amount of rose oil you need tons of petals. The same is true for neroli. That requires land, water, energy and transport. One synthetic rose molecule can give the same scent with much less impact.
Pressure on vulnerable species and people.
Materials like Boswellia, oud and some resins are overharvested worldwide. Fully natural perfumes increase this pressure. Modern synthetic alternatives protect these species. Think also of neurotoxic pesticides and poor working conditions for field workers. Is it reasonable to expect someone on the other side of the world to work in bad conditions so we can consume cheap olibanum oil?
Limited scent possibilities
Modern airy or sparkling perfumes are impossible with naturals only. Some flowers, like lily of the valley, do not produce an essential oil at all. Without synthetic molecules you cannot create that character.
Why natural is not automatically safer
Plants smell beautiful, but their aromatic molecules are powerful. Citrus oils make the skin sensitive to the sun. Lavender oxidises quickly and can irritate because of that. Chamomile seems gentle, but can react strongly on sensitive skin.
Some naturals are even the strongest allergens we know: cinnamon leaf (eugenol, cinnamaldehyde), oakmoss (atranol), and also rose oil and ylang ylang contain natural allergens that can cause issues.
And you can ask yourself whether collecting thousands of kilos of plant material for a few drops of aromatic molecules is truly “natural”. In my eyes the only real natural is nature itself. Smell a tree, a flower, the sea.
That is why clear regulations exist. EU law and IFRA mainly limit natural allergens. These rules are not random, but protect people from real risks that come directly from plant materials.
Natural is not automatically safe. Synthetic is not automatically bad. It always comes down to the molecule and the dose.
Why this is different in aromatherapy
Aromatherapy has a different purpose from perfumery. It is not about creating a beautiful long lasting scent, but about the effect of the natural plant chemistry. The complex mix of molecules in a plant is exactly what one wants to use.
In aromatherapy you usually use essential oils only briefly and almost always diluted, or you diffuse them. They do not stay on your skin for hours like in perfume. Because of that you can work more easily with raw naturals that may be rougher or more irritating.
In perfumery a scent must be safe, stable and wearable. In aromatherapy the natural plant chemistry is the goal.
Our philosophy
We do not believe in natural versus synthetic. We believe in conscious choice.
We choose ingredients that smell beautiful, are made honestly and cause as little impact as possible. Sometimes that comes from a flower. Sometimes from a lab.
We use safer versions of well known natural materials, such as:
• Bergamot FCF
Bergamot oil without furocoumarins. No risk of photosensitivity.
• Grapefruit
Methyl Pamplemousse gives a grapefruit vibe without the issues of real grapefruit: no photosensitivity, no allergens, no huge plant footprint.
• Orris
Only environmentally responsible reconstructions.
• Oakmoss low atranol
Oakmoss without atranol and chloroatranol. Safer according to IFRA.
• Sandalwood
Reconstructed sandalwood based on pure molecules, or cultivated sandalwood from responsible sources.
• Green chemistry wherever possible.
• Naturals from leading suppliers such as
High end natural ingredient suppliers like Robertet, France
Absolute top in naturals, organic cultivation, terroir materials, citrus, flowers, resins.
Etc. To be continued...
